The result, a clubface that’s closed to the club’s path, and a push draw. So do the opposite.ĭoesn’t always work, but in some cases your panicking brain will close the face to try and square it to the target. We know that our brain will panic, sense we’re aiming left, and try to save the shot by squaring the clubface. On that note, before we get to other fixes, here’s a quick one to try. Your brain is trying to save the shot, but actually it’s just made the problem worse. Which effectively opens the clubface to the path even more, and results in more slice. īut what often ends up happening is that your brain senses you’re aiming left and tries to square the clubface to the target on the way down. It seems intuitive that if you’re slicing the ball you should aim left to compensate. This is what can be an absolute killer for slicers.
image: GolfTecĪnd the more the clubface is open to the path, the more the ball will slice. Which means that even if your clubface is pointed left of the target line (closed) at impact, if your club is travelling on a path that’s even further left your golf ball is going to curve to the right. In simple terms, the ball will slice if the clubface is open to the club’s path at impact. It can be equally as destructive, but it’s a different fault. That’s a problem that’s generally caused by coming too far from the inside, which in most cases (although not all) will be the opposite of what a slicer is doing. Just to be clear, if your ball starts right and stays right (without curving) you’re blocking the ball, not slicing.
If you’re left handed, then just reverse the instruction. Note: For the rest of this guide I’m going to use right handed examples. A slice in golf is when the ball curves excessively to the right (right handed golfer) or to the left (left handed golfer).
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